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The Norfolk Broads Forum / Broads Boat Owners Q & A / EBERSPACHER
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Posted By Discussion Topic: EBERSPACHER

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Ellaboat
Jan-06-2006 @ 2:19 PM                           Permalink
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Buying Secondhand?
You may have seen the many D1LC Compact heaters for sale on Ebay.
Having just bought and fitted one of the above, I put it to test during the recent bitterly cold weather and am well pleased with the results.
The purpose of this post is to pass on any technical information that I painstakingly gleaned prior to installation (plus safety issues re siting) for the benefit of other like minded (and small pocketed) boat owners.
Most of the units on Ebay are ex BT or similar vehicles and lack one wire in the cable loom (used for connection of a room/cabin thermostat). Instead the heater internally monitors the temperature of the incoming fresh air and adjusts it's output depending on this temp. and the target temp. as set on the control device. This is not a major problem, but if you do not want to recycle the cabin air and want better control over the heater then a remote cabin temperature sensor is required. I will soon be fitting a separate temperature sensor and can then report on success or otherwise.
If you have any questions, I will pass on any relevant information that I have gleaned.
Please be patient if you don't receive an instant response.


E/boat Steve

Ellaboat
Jan-12-2006 @ 11:36 AM                           Permalink
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Well I've fitted the remote (cabin) temperature sensor and it works perfectly.
The heater looks for, and recognises, that a remote sensor is fitted during the automatic diagnostics on startup. It then uses this sensor in preference to the internal sensor during operation.
I disconnected the remote sensor (with the heater operating) to see results and sure enough the heater generated a fault code of F60 (open circuit temperature sensor).
Note that you cannot switch over to the remote sensor with the heater running - it will simply ignore it.
Another improvement that you can make to one of these ex BT heaters is to replace the standard rheostat control with a 7 day timer - these are selling on ebay for around 40 Pounds Sterling. The only slight niggle is that the timers currently on ebay are the German version (so the 2 letters that represent the day of the week are abbreviated German - I CAN'T SPEAK GERMAN - but I'm learning Smile
In time I'll get round to posting info re connections for any other DIYers out there.
There are of course safety issues to consider and anyone uneasy about self-fit would be better going to an authorised dealer.

E/boat Steve

Ellaboat
Jan-12-2006 @ 6:06 PM                           Permalink
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Am trying to gauge whether this subject is proving of interest - need feedback!!
Has anybody else any relevant technical info to share.

E/boat Steve

Deano
Jan-12-2006 @ 8:48 PM                           Permalink
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Please keep going.....
... I'm interested in how you did the inlet and
exhaust.

fendoff
Jan-12-2006 @ 11:47 PM                           Permalink
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Hi
Well I don't have a Eberspacher but I have been intrigued by what you have achieved. Definitely food for thought. A couple of pictures of the installation would be great.

fendoff

Torty
Jan-12-2006 @ 12:22 AM                           Permalink
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Please press on. Our Eberspacher heats a water jacket that then pumps round four radiators and the calorifier. But I am interested to learn from your experience. We had a Webasto hot air system on our last boat and could not get on with it. So far we love the Eberspacher - apart from when the glow plug failed last Boxing Day (2004). Luckily we have 240v power and could head for a shorepower pylon and get the blow fire going. Now I always keep a spare on the boat. Haven't had it long so I don't have a feel for the likely life of a glow plug.

Phil

Ellaboat
Jan-13-2006 @ 1:46 AM                           Permalink
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Thanks for feedback everyone.
I did write a longish reply earlier, but lost it when I clicked on "reply to message."
Richard help - where did it go??

E/boat Steve

Richard
Jan-13-2006 @ 2:04 AM                           Permalink
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Sorry Steve, only slightly my fault. Basically the system "times out" your session after about 2 hours of inactivity. For long posts I tend to do them in notepad or word and then cut and paste.

Ellaboat
Jan-13-2006 @ 2:38 AM                           Permalink
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Thanks for info Richard. It'll teach me to finish it in one go and not keep walking away (or alternatively use notepad as you suggest)...

Here goes with retype

There are 2 inlets to provide for:-
1) Combustion air
2) Fresh air for heating and distribution to cabins

For the combustion air I bought an Eberspacher silenced air intake pipe. (John at Eber-Basto advised me that this makes the heater quieter in operation). The heater takes combustion air from the engine compartment (as does the main engine).
This is the black pipe to the left of the copper fuel inlet pipe.

For fresh air I fitted an intake on the cockpit starboard panelling. The 60mm air ducting runs down between the panelling and the outer hull then across the rear of the engine compartment (entering the heater on the left of the picture). As we have a canvas canopy, this is only one step away from taking air from outside the boat.
Siting of this intake is crucial for a safe installation - any noxious fumes entering here will be distributed around the entire boat.
We have a centre cockpit and rarely smell any fumes but if you have an aft cockpit and transom exhaust, NEVER site your intake low down in the aft well.
Given the effects of the low pressure area created behind a moving boat, it hardly seems necessary to make this point but even experienced Ebby dealers have been caught out by this (there's an MAIB case file on this very subject).

For the exhaust outlet on a fibreglass hull you will need an air-cooled (double skinned) hull fitting. Eberspacher would charge you £120+ for this, but you can usually buy one on Ebay for about £48 (they are on special at the moment for £36). Watch out for cheap Chinese imitations. The genuine fittings (I believe) all have 4 fixing holes. They also angle the exhaust down steeply to help avoid ingress of water.
The heater should be fitted above the level of the hull exhaust outlet, but if you cannot achieve that (which I couldn't), then fit the hull outlet no higher than the level of the exhaust outlet on the bottom of the heater. The two are connected by 24mm (inside diameter)stainless exhaust tubing - use the genuine Eberspacher tube.

Continued in next post..


E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Jan-23-06 @ 9:26 AM

Ellaboat
Jan-13-2006 @ 3:01 AM                           Permalink
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Remember to also fit an insulating sock on exhaust tubing to avoid potential nasty burns and fall foul of BSS. (Exhaust with sock is white pipe in picture).

Fuel tubing must be copper pipe for BSS compliance.

Fuel pump needs to be angled up at least 15 degrees for correct operation (see picture). Ideally, the fuel line should progressively climb from the tank to the heater with no dips.

Also I will need to replace those un-insulated crimp terminals - they are another potential BSS failure.

This fitting will continue to evolve. I still have not properly supported the cabin air ducting and rogue untidy wires that you may notice in the pictures offend my eyes every time I lift the floor panels.

1st of 6 pictures attached

E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Jan-23-06 @ 9:21 AM


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